Everyone knows San Francisco is hilly. But if you've never been to a hilly city you just don't know what that means. Our trip to see the former homes of the Lazar family c. 1900 - 1920 took us up and up, and up and up, until we could see the waters of the bay sparkling in the rear-view mirror.
The family lived on Sutter street near Scott until the earthquake. Their second home was merely a block over on Bush St. - which was even closer to their "home church"- St. Dominic's Cathedral. I wanted to gage how much of a presence the church would have had on their lives, and I was surprised to note that it didn't dominate the neighborhood as much as I had thought it would. Driving by you almost miss it because it's so huge. It feels rather more like an alien being, with its long legs splayed out along the road.
We found parking on the lazy shaded street where the family of four once lived and began our search but the houses and numbers didn't seem to add up. I began counting from one end, arriving at the spot where the house must have been. Although the number was wrong we had to be satisfied to end our study there. Then, from the steps above, we heard the greeting of a very kind gentleman who took an interest in our search to find the home of our ancestors.
He and his wife were in the midst of preparing for a baby shower, but they were so generous with us that they let us come inside and see their home. He seemed happy to tell us what he knew about it as he walked us through the rooms, explaining that his house was the only one on the block that had not been remodeled inside.
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| Original Fixtures |
We talked about how the neighborhood had weathered the Earthquake in 1906. This street had been spared the fire and many of the houses were fine except for the chimneys which had been rocked out of place. His family had been living in that home during the 1989 quake and he related that their daughter saw the giant cathedral dome crash down from her window that day. (I put that in the back of my mind. The spire from St. Dominic's that was destroyed in the 1906 quake was probably even taller.)
It was getting late and we were thinking coffee...food...and of course, parking... It's a given in this city that you figure everything out around parking. We headed for an out-of-the-way Pannini restaurant and had a fair meal. As the sun fell away from the downtown streets I got an idea. "Let's check out the Golden Gate Bridge!"
Auto pilot humming again, I set off back up the hills and headed for the presidio, or any optimal viewing area near gates of the bay. At one point I was somewhere I thought I was when, suddenly, I seemed to be getting on the bridge! But with hearts pounding we grabbed the last exit before heading to Oakland. We got off with seemingly dozens of other tourists who were out for the same thrill.
Which it was! Thrilling that is, to see the lady in lights holding court in twilight with a few patches of fog and the sky glowing royal blue. Pictures don't do it justice. Here is one of us together through the magic of photoshop:
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| Traveling with our Dad's ukulele |
It was cold, it was late, and we were heartily done for the day. We turned around and headed back to Berkeley where we were graciously expected and planned our next move. Tomorrow we will go back even further in time, to the sleepy mission period and the Castro-Breen Adobe, former home of Solomon's beloved wife, Anna Flynn, dressed up in 1880's style, just like it was when she lived there.



















